Modding is the act of modifying the way your computer performs, looks,
or functions. Some popular mods involve painting, cutting, and lighting
your computer.
Painting
Painting Metal
Painting Plastic
Other Painting Tips
Cutting
Cutting Introduction
Cutting Metal
Cutting Plastic
Lighting
Lighting Your PC
Cold Cathode Fluorescent Tubes
Electro-Luminescent Wire
Light Emitting Diodes: An Introduction
Planning for your LED Circuit
Wiring your LED Circuit
Mounting LEDs
Painting Metal
If you take the correct steps and time to spray-paint your metal PC
case, you can greatly improve its look. But rush the job, and you risk
disaster.
Safety
Because spray paint fumes can damage your eyes and lungs, and irritate
your skin, always wear the appropriate gloves, respirator, and goggles;
always paint in a well-ventilated area; and always follow the
precautions listed on the paint container.
Step 1 – Sanding
To ensure the paint adheres
to metal, you must prepare the surface correctly. First, sandpaper it
well to remove existing paint, rust, or dirt. (Take care neither to
create deep scratches, nor to sand the surface so perfectly the paint
will not stick.) Second, clean the surface with an appropriate cleaner
to remove any traces of paint and dust.
Step 2 – Masking Tape
Tape off with masking tape any areas you do not plan to paint. To make
sure no paint leaks under the tape, press it firmly to the metal.
Step 3 – Primer
To ensure a great paint job, apply one or two coats of quality primer
directly to the prepared metal. (To cover any scratches, apply more
coats as necessary.) Before moving to the next step, follow the
dry-time directions on the primer container.
Step 4 – Painting
Once the primer dries, follow the directions on the paint can to learn
how far from the surface to hold it and how long to wait between coats.
Then spray on several light coats of paint. Do not worry if you fail to
cover the surface on the first attempt – you will catch the spots you
missed with subsequent coats.
Step 5 – Clear-Coat
To protect your new paint job against scratches, apply several layers
of clear-coat, which is a spray-on acrylic finish. The more thin layers
of clear-coat you apply, the better the protection. If you scratch the
clear-coat, you can usually rub or polish out the damage instead of
repainting the entire surface. You can also apply clear-coat to bare
metal, to protect it or give it a glossy look.
Painting Plastic
Most modders use plastic-specific spray paints, such as vinyl color or
vinyl dye. As is true of metal, if you take the correct steps and time
to spray-paint your plastic parts, you can greatly improve their look.
But rush the job, and you risk disaster. And as is the true when
painting metal, always wear the necessary safety equipment and follow
the precautions listed on the paint container.
Step 1 – Preparation
When painting plastic, all you need is a good clean surface and the
paint will stick. DO NOT USE sandpaper or alcohol-, acetone-, or
ammonia-based cleaners, all of which can seriously damage plastic
surfaces. Simply clean the surface with a lint-free towel and a mild
soap, and then let it dry.
Step 2 – Painting
Once your plastic part dries, apply very light coats of paint that
barely dust the surface. You might need dozens of these light coats to
cover the surface completely, but the results will be beautiful. Let
each coat dry for 5 to 10 minutes before applying the next. Allow the
final coat to dry overnight before using the plastic part.
Step 3 – Clear-Coat
Plastic paints usually last far longer than most metal paints. That
said, you might choose to clear-coat your plastic surface for more
shiny and durable results. Again, you need to apply many very light
coats.
Other Painting Tips
Using Masking Tape Creatively
If you think of
masking tape as more than a mundane tool, it can be your creative best
friend. Armed with a sharp pencil and a precision craft knife, you can
design or trace artistic patterns and shapes, transfer them to tape,
cut them out, and then stick them to the case or part you wish to
paint. (You can also use tape to preserve labels and decals you do not
wish to paint.)
Fading and Mixing Colors
To further personalize your work, consider applying paint to parts in a variety of different stripes, layers, and fades.
Painting Clear Plastics
If you paint the back of a quality piece of clear plastic you can
create a beautiful mirrored look on the front. In addition to providing
an incredibly durable finish, this technique allows you to etch the
painted surface and enhance any lighting effects.
Cutting Introduction
Cutting Into Your Case
You can mod your PC by using a rotary tool to cut into your case
something as simple as a small window or as complex as a cityscape.
Safety
When cutting metal,
always wear leather gloves and goggles. When using a rotary tool,
especially on materials that create a lot of dust, always wear a dust
mask rated for the material you plan to cut.
When cutting plastics know that most melt
at relatively low temperatures, and that cutting them presents a
different challenge and demands a drill and a specially designed spiral
bit for your rotary tool. And because heated plastic can release both
sharp debris and harmful fumes, always wear goggles and a respirator,
and always work in a well-ventilated area.
Cutting Metal
Step 1 – Masking Tape
Apply masking tape to protect the metal case surface from scratches.
Then draw or trace onto the tape the lines you plan to cut.
Step 2 – Cutting
The correct way to cut with a rotary tool is to plunge the blade into
the surface – always inside your marked line – lift it out, and repeat
this process as necessary.
Step 3 – Smoothing the Edge
Finish your cut
with a file and sandpaper. Use the file to reshape and smooth out any
significant nicks and bumps, and the sandpaper to clean away metal
shards and smooth the cut edge back to your marked line.
Step 4 – Trim
Add trim to improve your cut’s look and protect its edge from dings and
dust – and also to protect your fingers. You can buy trim at any
automotive parts retailer or make your own by slitting plastic tubing.
Cut the trim long, press it over the edge, and heat it with a hairdryer
to bend it around arcs and into corners. Once you trim the cut, snip
off the start and finish ends where they meet.
Cutting Plastic
Step 1 – Preparation
Clean the plastic and mark your design onto the surface with a sharp tool or pencil.
Step 2 – Drilling a Pilot Hole
Before cutting with your spiral bit, drill a small pilot hole just inside your marked line.
Step 3 – Cutting
Plunge the spiral bit into your pilot hole, and begin cutting inside
your marked line by pushing the bit very slowly and removing melted
plastic as you go. Keep your rotary tool at a slow-ish speed to prevent
the cut plastic from heating up and re-fusing.
Step 4 –Finishing the Cut
Finish your cut with a file and sandpaper. Use the file to reshape and
smooth out any significant nicks and bumps, and the sandpaper to clean
away plastic shards and smooth the edge back to your marked line. If
you cut clear plastic, use progressively fine grades of sandpaper to
polish the new edge – wet-dry sandpaper will keep the plastic from
melting and yield the best results. Finally, switch to progressively
fine polishing compounds to achieve a near-perfect finish.
Special Note: Score and Snap
Often, you can score a thin plastic sheet with a hobby or utility
knife, place the score line at the edge of a table or step, and simply
snap it in two. Always wear goggles, in case the plastic shatters.
Lighting Your PC
Modders commonly use three types of lighting to customize their computers – Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light Tubes (CCFLs), Electro-Luminescent Wire (EL-Wire), and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs).
Cold Cathode Fluorescent Tubes (CCFL Tubes)
CCFLs are fragile, miniature fluorescent tubes. They emit a lot of
light, are cheap and quick to install, and are available in sizes from
four inches to two feet, and in nearly any color you might want. Be
warned that some “red” CCFLs shine orange, some “blue” ones teal, and
so on. If you want a specific color, choose a different option.
Safety
CCFLs are powered by inverters, which generate hundreds of volts. Never
touch an inverter’s outputs, never run the inverter without a CCFL tube
attached, and never extend an inverter’s output wires unless you use
appropriately rated high-voltage wiring.
Step 1 – Mounting
CCFLs are most effective when you install them out of direct view and
close to a power source. You will need to hide the inverter too. If
your CCFL does not come with mounting hardware, mount it with
double-sided tape or zip-ties.
Step 2 – Wiring
Connect an inverter to the power connector inside your computer. If it
is packaged with a switch, cut a hole for the accessory and mount it
before connecting the CCFL tube to the inverter.
Step 3 – Testing
Now turn on your computer to see if the CCFL works. (Note, some
cathodes take time to warm up to their full brightness. Also note, if
your inverter makes a high-pitched whine, encase it in metal, and never
in plastic or soft materials, which might melt or catch fire from the
heat.)
Electro-Luminescent Wire (EL-Wire)
Designed for direct-view installation and flexibility, EL-wire is not a
bright source of light, but is ideal for illuminating cables, trimming
the edges of case windows, and adding artistic touches. You can buy it
by length or in kits.
Safety
Because EL-wire is powered by inverters, which generate hundreds of
volts, never touch an inverter’s outputs, never run the inverter
without EL-wire attached, and never extend an inverter’s output wires
unless you use appropriately rated high-voltage wiring.
Step 1 – Mounting
You can mount EL-wire in
various ways: wrap it around a cable or part, superglue it along the
edges of a case window, or even zip-tie it into place.
Step 2 – Wiring
Connect an inverter to a power connector inside your computer – if it
is packaged with a switch, cut a hole for the accessory and mount it
before connecting the EL-wire to the inverter.
Step 3 – Testing
Now turn on your computer to
see if the EL-wire works. (Note, if your inverter makes a high-pitched
whine, encase it in metal, and never in plastic or cloth, which might
melt or catch fire from the heat.)
Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs): An Introduction
LEDs
are the small lights used as power indicators on your computer and,
increasingly, as brake lights on high end automobiles. We measure an
LED’s brightness according to a millicandela (mcd) scale, and the
super-bright LEDs best for modding are rated above 2500mcd. They
produce precise colors, generate negligible heat, use little power, and
last for years – and you can buy them in DIY, single, or multiple-LED
packages. Here, we focus on DIY installation.
Safety
Because super-bright LEDs can harm the human eye, always install them out of direct view.
About LEDs
Here are five things to know before wiring an LED:
- Standard computer power-sources rate at +12volts and +5volts
- An LED’s “forward voltage specification” is the amount of voltage it consumes as power passes through it
- Because LEDs are semiconductors operating within limited
tolerances, and because too much power will burn them out, you must
protect them with current-limiting resistors.
- The current flowing through an LED must be equal to, or less than, its “typical current rating.” If not, it will not work.
- Like common or garden batteries, LEDs are polarity sensitive. If you install them backward, they will not work
Planning for Your LED Circuit
Single LED Circuit Resistor Requirements
Set out using a first formulation of Ohm’s Law to discover the resistor
needed for an LED installation – R = V / I, where “R” is resistance in
ohms, “V” is voltage in volts, and “I” is current in amps.
Consider, for example, a +5volts power-source and an LED rated at
20milliamps (mA) with a 2.4volt forward voltage specification. By
subtracting the LED’s forward voltage specification (2.4V) from the
power-source voltage (5V), you are left with 2.6volts, the “V” in Ohm’s
Law. Then divide the “V” by the “I,” the LED’s electrical current
rating (20mA or 0.02amps), to reach an “R” of 130ohms, the value of the
resistor necessary to protect your LED. In simpler terms, a 130ohms
resistor will protect a 20mA, 2.4volt LED running on a 5volt circuit.
Now, when choosing a resistor, you must also consider the amount of
power it can handle using a second formulation of Ohm’s Law – W = I x
V, where “W” is power in watts, “I” remains current in amps, and “V”
remains voltage in volts
Multiply the 2.6volts that reach the resistor in the example above by
the 0.02A flowing through the circuit to yield the wattage the resistor
must take up and dissipate as heat. The answer is 0.052watts, or less
than 1/16watt. Then choose a resistor rated for a higher wattage, say
1/8watt, to avoid the possibility of failure or even fire.
Series LED Circuit Resistor Requirements
Wiring LEDs in series is a practical way to increase significantly the
number of LEDs you can connect on a single circuit. When wiring LEDs in
series, use the same equations for wiring a single LED, but multiply
the forward voltage specification of each LED by the number of LEDs you
plan to use.
Parallel LED Wiring Resistor Requirements
Do not wire LEDs in parallel on a single resistor. Instead, wire single
LEDs in parallel only when each has its own resistor and series-wired
LEDs in parallel only when each series has its own resistor.
Wiring Your LED Circuit
With the appropriate resistors selected, you can get to work with a
soldering iron and a few other basic tools. You will also need one
Molex power connector with attached wires, one LED, one resistor, 22
gauge or thicker wire – the lower the gauge number the thicker the wire
– and five pieces of small heat-shrink tubing
Safety
Learn how to use a soldering iron and any other tools safely before
attempting any mod. Solder may contain lead – so always handle it
carefully, always follow the safety precautions on product packaging,
and always solder in a well-ventilated area. And always, always make
sure your power source is off while soldering.
Step 1 – Strip the Power Connector
On a
standard Molex power connector, the yellow wire is +12volts, the red
wire is +5volts, and the two black wires are available for ground
and/or negative. For single LED circuits use the +5volts wire. With
wire-strippers, strip off half an inch of tubing from the red wire and
one black wire. To prevent short circuits, cut down the unused wires
and wrap them individually with tape.
Step 2 – Connect the Positive Wire to the Power Connector
Cut
a piece of 22 gauge or thicker wire long enough to reach from the power
connector to your resistor. Protect it with heat-shrink tubing and
strip one end of the wire. Then wrap this exposed wire together with
the power connector’s stripped red wire. Apply solder to this joint and
cover it fully with the heat-shrink tubing. Finally, shrink the tubing
over the resistor by heating it with a butane lighter or heat gun.
Step 3 – Connect the Positive Wire to the Resistor
Strip the free end of the wire and wrap it around one leg of the
resistor. Apply solder to this joint and cut away any extra wire from
the resistor. Slip some heat-shrink tubing (long enough to cover the
resistor and the solder-joints) over the resistor and onto the wire.
Step 4 – Finish Wiring the Resistor
Cut a piece of wire long enough to reach from the resistor to the LED.
Strip one end of this wire and wrap it around the free leg of the
resistor. Solder this joint and cut away any extra wire. Slip the
heat-shrink tubing from Step 4 back onto the resistor so it covers the
resistor and all soldered joints. Then heat the tubing to shrink it.
Step 5 – Wire the Positive Leg of the LED
Strip the other end of the wire you attached to the resistor in Step 4,
and slip some heat-shrink tubing over it. Wrap the exposed end of the
wire around the positive leg of the LED – this is usually the longer
leg, but do not fear, you will test the LED before soldering the wire
to it.
Step 6 – Connect the Negative Wire to the Power Connector
Cut a piece of wire long enough to reach from the LED back to the power
connector. Repeat Step 2, connecting this wire to the power connector’s
negative (black) wire.
Step 7 – Wire the Negative Leg of the LED
Strip the free end of the negative wire. (Slip a piece of heat-shrink
tubing onto this wire now for use later.) Wrap the wire tightly around
the negative leg of the LED, making sure the two legs do not touch.
Step 8 – Test the LED
With the LED attached thus to the resistor and power connector, switch
on the power to test the LED. If it does not light, disconnect power
and simply reverse the wires wrapped around the LED’s legs and test
again. When the LED lights, move to Step 9.
Step 9 – Solder the LED
Disconnect the power source and apply solder to the wires wrapped
around the legs of the LED. Then, slip the two pieces of heat-shrink
tubing fully over the LED’s solder joints and heat them. Finally,
retest your LED.
Mounting LEDs
The easiest way to mount your LED is with a hot-glue gun.
Step 1 –Test Your Mounting Location
Tape your LED to the desired spot. If it projects light as and to where you hoped, mark its location and remove it.
Step 2 – Mount the LED
To keep the LED in place while the glue sets, tape down the wires
running to and from it. Apply hot glue to the LED and the mounting
surface, while carefully protecting the front of the LED. As the glue
cools down, hold the LED in place with tweezers. Also, you can choose
to leave the wires taped or to glue them down.
Step 3 – Final Testing
Power up your LED and enjoy the results.
